How to make curtain panels?

How to make curtain panels?

Answer #1

1). Begin with the curtian rods. Different rods will require different methods of

  hanging the draperies.   Some "double rods" will also allow you to hang sheers
  behind your regular drapes for room effect if you prefer.

2). Decide if you want the draperies to go to the floor (usually about 80 inches),

  or perhaps just to a window sill (depends on the size of the windows).   

3). Decide if you want the draperies “lined” or not. If you do, then you will have to

  plan on the type and  extra material that you will need for the lining.

4). When you measure for your draperies, most often there are two pannels for

  each window.   The "rule of thumb" is that when you measure for the width of
  your windows that you add 1/2 again the width for  the overall width.   This will
 allow the draperies to hang with rolling "pleats" in them instead of being totally
 "flat" across when the drapes are closed.  Take the "overall" measurement and
 cut it in half ...one half for the finished width of each pannel.

5). For the bottom of the draperies, there are different ways to “finish off” the hem

  at the bottom.  One accepted way is to fold the bottom of the material up to the
  back side of the pannel about one inch, and do a straight machine stitch to 
  sew that into place.    THEN,  the material is folded up again... perhaps anywhere
  from 2 to 4 inches, and that forms the final hem.   This "final hem" is tacked into
 place with hidden stitches that will not show through from the front of the drape.

 Many times weights are sewn into the bottom of the draperies to help them hang
 straighter when hung.  Check with your local sewing shop to see what they would
 suggest.   You don't want to use anything that might "rust" through the material at
 a later date.

6). The sides of the drapes are quite often begin with a very small “roll hem” to

   remove the fresh cut edge of the material.  Then about another 1 inch hem is 
   created up the sides again and blind stitched into place.

   I should note here that quite often your better draperies are given a very small
   hem where they will meet in the center of the  window...  but the outside edges
   of the drapery are often a wider hem for a more finished look on the outside 
   edges.

7). If you had chosen to use a lining for your drapes, it can be sewn in as you

    create the hems,  or it can be added last by turning the drape inside out  (much
   like a pillow case) as you sew it into place.  Just remember to design the lining
   so that the stitches that hold it in place will not be visible from the front.

8). For the top of the drape, a real easy solution would be to purchase what is know

   as "pleater tape".   This is made of a rather "canvass" looking material and  is 
   perhaps about 4 inches wide and  quite often comes in a roll.

   The pleater tape is already designed to accommodate the curtain hooks for  
   hanging the drape.  In short, it simply gets sewn to the back side of the drape
   at the top.

9). The hem for the top of the drapery pannel is done much like the bottom hem,

   except tradition usually has that hem only half as deep as the bottom hem, or 
   less.

Be certain that your curtain rods are anchored well enough to accommodate the weight of the material that you choose to make your drapes out of. For heavier materials, supports are sold that will help reinforce the drapery rod in the center for added support.

If you choose your material wisely from the start, you may not have to have them dry cleaned in the future when necessary. Some fabrics for drapes work very well going from the washer to the dryer and back to the windows with little or no shrinkage at all.

If your draperies are “lined”, make certain that the drapery material is about the same properties as the lining. You don’t want to end up machine washing and drying your draperies only to find out that the drapes did not shrink… but the lining “did”.

Finally, as you measure for your material… plan at that time how large you want to make your hems. Don’t forget to measure for the material that you will need to make your hems as well. Add that to the finished lengh of the drapes as you intend them to be.

Accessories such as cords and/or tie backs also make the drapes more attractive.

I Hope This Helped. Good Luck !

:-)

Answer #2

1). Begin with the curtian rods. Different rods will require different methods of

  hanging the draperies.   Some "double rods" will also allow you to hang sheers
  behind your regular drapes for room effect if you prefer.

2). Decide if you want the draperies to go to the floor (usually about 80 inches),

  or perhaps just to a window sill (depends on the size of the windows).   

3). Decide if you want the draperies “lined” or not. If you do, then you will have to

  plan on the type and  extra material that you will need for the lining.

4). When you measure for your draperies, most often there are two pannels for

  each window.   The "rule of thumb" is that when you measure for the width of
  your windows that you add 1/2 again the width for  the overall width.   This will
 allow the draperies to hang with rolling "pleats" in them instead of being totally
 "flat" across when the drapes are closed.  Take the "overall" measurement and
 cut it in half ...one half for the finished width of each pannel.

5). For the bottom of the draperies, there are different ways to “finish off” the hem

  at the bottom.  One accepted way is to fold the bottom of the material up to the
  back side of the pannel about one inch, and do a straight machine stitch to 
  sew that into place.    THEN,  the material is folded up again... perhaps anywhere
  from 2 to 4 inches, and that forms the final hem.   This "final hem" is tacked into
 place with hidden stitches that will not show through from the front of the drape.

 Many times weights are sewn into the bottom of the draperies to help them hang
 straighter when hung.  Check with your local sewing shop to see what they would
 suggest.   You don't want to use anything that might "rust" through the material at
 a later date.

6). The sides of the drapes are quite often begin with a very small “roll hem” to

   remove the fresh cut edge of the material.  Then about another 1 inch hem is 
   created up the sides again and blind stitched into place.

   I should note here that quite often your better draperies are given a very small
   hem where they will meet in the center of the  window...  but the outside edges
   of the drapery are often a wider hem for a more finished look on the outside 
   edges.

7). If you had chosen to use a lining for your drapes, it can be sewn in as you

    create the hems,  or it can be added last by turning the drape inside out  (much
   like a pillow case) as you sew it into place.  Just remember to design the lining
   so that the stitches that hold it in place will not be visible from the front.

8). For the top of the drape, a real easy solution would be to purchase what is know

   as "pleater tape".   This is made of a rather "canvass" looking material and  is 
   perhaps about 4 inches wide and  quite often comes in a roll.

   The pleater tape is already designed to accommodate the curtain hooks for  
   hanging the drape.  In short, it simply gets sewn to the back side of the drape
   at the top.

9). The hem for the top of the drapery pannel is done much like the bottom hem,

   except tradition usually has that hem only half as deep as the bottom hem, or 
   less.

Be certain that your curtain rods are anchored well enough to accommodate the weight of the material that you choose to make your drapes out of. For heavier materials, supports are sold that will help reinforce the drapery rod in the center for added support.

If you choose your material wisely from the start, you may not have to have them dry cleaned in the future when necessary. Some fabrics for drapes work very well going from the washer to the dryer and back to the windows with little or no shrinkage at all.

If your draperies are “lined”, make certain that the drapery material is about the same properties as the lining. You don’t want to end up machine washing and drying your draperies only to find out that the drapes did not shrink… but the lining “did”.

Finally, as you measure for your material… plan at that time how large you want to make your hems. Don’t forget to measure for the material that you will need to make your hems as well. Add that to the finished lengh of the drapes as you intend them to be.

Accessories such as cords and/or tie backs also make the drapes more attractive.

I Hope This Helped. Good Luck !

:-)

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