Escape Skopje past the mountains towards west, and one of the first thing you notice in the landscape are the red Albanian flags of the double-headed eagle, small and huge, flying everywhere... houses, utility posts, gas stations... If it's summer, you can also see long queues of cars celebrating a wedding, again flying the eagle banners. Don't worry—you have not crossed unknowingly into Albania, this region is where the Albanians of Macedonia mainly live in. They seem to be a pretty nationalistic community, and the ethnic identities play an important role in daily lives in this country.
Then move towards the mountains to south, where the ancients named "the land of the lynx", and south of Kičevo, the minarets give way for the belfries and huge hilltop crosses, and the Albanian banners for the flag of the Macedonian sun. With a small chapel clinging to the mountainsides now and then, the lush scenery on the other side of the window keeps going like this, until you reach the territory of multiculturalism back in Ohrid.